Plans for building speaker cabs

[boneyguy]

Are there any good internet sites with plans for building various styles of cabs? I'm also looking to build a amp head enclosure as well.

[bboot]

Building and Designing Speaker Cabinets for Guitar and Bass

Online Cab Building Guide

London Power DIY Speaker Cabinets for Musical Instrument Applications

[boneyguy]

Originally Posted by bboot

Building and Designing Speaker Cabinets for Guitar and Bass

Online Cab Building Guide

London Power DIY Speaker Cabinets for Musical Instrument Applications

Thank you.

[CancerLeoCam]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Blackface-Guitar...QQcmdZViewItem

[JohnnyCrash]

I never use plans, except I did look at the 5E3 cab plans so I could make mine similar (though I made it deeper, slightly more angled, and with thicker front panels cleats).

You can check basic dimensions on older fenders, then use 3/4" pine and get close enough. Recess the cleats back enough for baffles, etc.

I've built rear panelled tweed style combo and head cabs, BF/SF angled panel combo and head cabs, Marshall style head cabs, basic cube speaker cabs, and other types...

In the end, the only kind I'd actually use a plan for is a Bass cab. Depth/internal volume, ports, etc to obtain efficiency is something you can't wing :)

[boneyguy]

Thanks for the input guys.

Hey JohnnyCrash!! Are you saying you don't bother using plans because the design of the cab isn't all that important to the final sound of the thing or is there another reason?

[JohnnyCrash]

Originally Posted by boneyguy

Thanks for the input guys.

Hey JohnnyCrash!! Are you saying you don't bother using plans because the design of the cab isn't all that important to the final sound of the thing or is there another reason?

Usually not a whole lot. In bigger high wattage amps, yes. In closed back versus open backed, yes.

I've heard 5E3 clones through "period correct" solid pine and compared to my birch ply (deeper, more angled, and stiffer birch-ply), the cabs don't really do much. Maybe in a 50-100 watt amp it would, that's a bit more air moving there.

I do notice when the cabs are a good deal bigger and deeper. But a matter of a few inches or so? Nothing noticeable. Go off of basic dimensions for most cabs and don't sweat an inch or two too much.

[boneyguy]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCrash

Usually not a whole lot. In bigger high wattage amps, yes. In closed back versus open backed, yes.

I've heard 5E3 clones through "period correct" solid pine and compared to my birch ply (deeper, more angled, and stiffer birch-ply), the cabs don't really do much. Maybe in a 50-100 watt amp it would, that's a bit more air moving there.

I do notice when the cabs are a good deal bigger and deeper. But a matter of a few inches or so? Nothing noticeable. Go off of basic dimensions for most cabs and don't sweat an inch or two too much.

Cool Mr. Crash. Thanks for the help.

[11 Gauge]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCrash

I do notice when the cabs are a good deal bigger and deeper. But a matter of a few inches or so? Nothing noticeable. Go off of basic dimensions for most cabs and don't sweat an inch or two too much.

So true.

I always revert back to Jim Marshall's response on how he came up with the specific dimensions for his historic 4X12 cabinet - it was basically as small as he could make it and fit the 4 12's in it (paraphrasing - sorry!).

With the Marshall quote in mind, it makes it easier to deviate from exact dimensions (for me, anyway).

I prefer to concentrate on two other criteria -

- how practical/functional can I make this cab?

- how can I optimize the design for the speakers I intend to use?

Practicality and functionality are TRULY important. If you base your cab design on dimensions of just one head that you park on top of it, and then switch to a wider head, you've missed an important aspect of how you should have built your cab. If it's a PITA to load speakers, the chassis, reverb tank, etc. into it, you need to go back to the drawing board and do it again.

Optimization is key as well. If you know that you prefer speakers that sound better with a closed back cab, you need to focus on that design. If you know that you'll be pushing lots of air through the cab, you should focus on materials and designs that aren't going to rattle and buzz like mad, even if they aren't embraced by the big name builders.

The best advice I can probably give is to approach this lightly, try to have fun, and realize that you are going to make mistakes no matter how much you prepare.

[JohnnyCrash]

Originally Posted by 11 Gauge

The best advice I can probably give is to approach this lightly, try to have fun, and realize that you are going to make mistakes no matter how much you prepare.

HAHAHAHAHAH!!

I wish I knew this bit of advice years ago. Sometimes it seems ALL I do is make mistakes.

Sometimes I wonder if you're not my twin brother from the same mail man.

[boneyguy]

Lightly I will go. Thanks for the advice.

I got the plywood from Home Depot for making the head enclosure tonight. All tolled it cost me $3.40 from the scrap bin. I even got the guy to do all the cuts for me. It's a 5/8" utility sort of ply that I figured would suffice for making the head. So here we go, let the games begin........

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCrash

I never use plans, except I did look at the 5E3 cab plans so I could make mine similar (though I made it deeper, slightly more angled, and with thicker front panels cleats).

You can check basic dimensions on older fenders, then use 3/4" pine and get close enough. Recess the cleats back enough for baffles, etc.

I've built rear panelled tweed style combo and head cabs, BF/SF angled panel combo and head cabs, Marshall style head cabs, basic cube speaker cabs, and other types...

In the end, the only kind I'd actually use a plan for is a Bass cab. Depth/internal volume, ports, etc to obtain efficiency is something you can't wing :)

+1 to what JC sez.

Guitar cabs - speaker and combo - are best left to fitting in the components, and set the cab depth to your tastes. For the most part, some 12" wide 1" pine boards (11-1/4" x 3/4" true dimensions) that are light in weight and not cupped much make up a very resonant and lively cab. I leave enuf room to allow for baffle board cleats and just stain and clear coat the wood. You can lap the board joints, but half blind dovetails will be the strongest and look really nice.

Bass cabs require some serious thinking and planning.