|
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||
| Home | Forum | Resources | TeleShop | Gallery | Classifieds | Reviews | Register | FAQ | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Amp Central Station Amps, tubes, speakers & everything AMP related. |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#202 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Holic
|
Yeah, that's what it does. The side effect is that it stays clean further up the dial. The sound with the volume all the way up is the same, but saturation sets in around say 12:00 instead of 09:00.
steven
__________________
"When you have to kill a man it costs nothing to be polite" - WSC |
|
|
|
|
|
#203 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
|
Hopelessly Obsessive Neurotics, unite!
I went this route. The whole thing start to finish probably took me about 24 hours on the bench. Here are a few of the things I did:
1) make spare copies of the layout diagram and the electrical schematic. Use a highlighter to mark what you've done on the layout diagram as you go. Toward the end (while you can still see the back of your board), trace the circuit as built and highlight electrical schematic. This is good for insuring that you have the right number of connections at each junction. Finish highlighting the layout diagram and schematic in lock step as you install the board and finish the final connections. 2) There are two posts in this thread that are pure gold: Test Protocol - thanks Steven Connection details - thanks Johnny Print these out. Use the highlighter you bought for #1 above to check off info that you verify and tests that you do. Johnny's is the Rosetta stone if you don't already know how to read the electrical schematic. 3) Before I ever put B+ to the filter caps, I took a final pass at DC resistance between each pair of tube lugs to be sure I didn't have any accidental shorts in my socket wiring (or elsewhere). This goes faster than it sounds because once you've tested V1p1 against all others (on all tubes, not just V1), you don't never have to return to that pin, then you do V1p2 (test against all lugs except V1p1 - you've already done that), etc - so the process get progressively faster as you go. The whole test probably took 5 minutes, but gave me a lot of confidence that any bridged pins are supposed to be. My reward: zero bugs at power up. Turned it on and it worked. Priceless.
__________________
"It's not your job to be as confused as Nigel." |
|
|
|
|
|
#205 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
|
Still chasing some noise...
I resoldered all V1 connections, and it seemed a bit better. I also found that when I measure the resistance between the potmeters housing and ground, it isn't completely zero. Could this be a cause? If so, how do I make sure that they are all grounded - I could just solder a wire between all of them and then to the brass plate, but I don't want to introduce any ground loops. |
|
|
|
|
|
#206 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Holic
|
What does 'isn't completely zero' mean to you? Nothing is a perfect conducter and you will get a fraction of an ohm resistance when measuring through the chassis.
steven
__________________
"When you have to kill a man it costs nothing to be polite" - WSC |
|
|
|
|
|
#207 (permalink) | |
|
Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
|
Quote:
First, what kind of noise? Low frequency hum? High frequency hiss? High frequency crackles and pops? Buzzing caused by the amp running loud, or on low/Bass notes? Is it intermitten or all the time? Does it only become a problem when the amp is turned up? Is it in one channel but not the other? How did you setup your 6.3v heater center tap? Artificial 100 ohm resistors or a real center tap? Have you tried putting the AC heaters on top of DC like at the 6V6's cathodes? Are you using shielded wire? Are your connections longer than they need to be? Have you tried new tubes (I had a noisy triode on a 12AY7, while the other triode was fine)? We'll iron out these kinks - it'll be sounding great and noiseless in no time :) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#208 (permalink) | ||
|
Tele-Meister
|
Quote:
With all three pots at zero, there's no noise. With both volume pots halfway and the tone at zero, there is no noise. With both volume pots at 3 quart and the tone at zero, there is almost no noise. The noise really becomes suddenly louder when I move the vol pots from 10 to 12 (either channel). No matter where the vol pots are, the noise gets louder when I open the tone pot. Quote:
The only piece of shielded wire provided with the Mission kit goes from one of the volume pots to lug 2 of V2, and only one side of the shield is soldered to ground. I did try another 12AY7 tube in V1 but that didn't help. Last edited by koen; July 1st, 2008 at 08:57 AM. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#210 (permalink) | |||
|
Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central TX
Age: 49
Posts: 667
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Sounds like all that is wrong is minor lead dress issues and at least one bad solder joint. Can you post some pics of the socket wiring? |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
#214 (permalink) | |
|
Tele-Meister
|
Quote:
BTW, all these observations were without a guitar plugged in. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#215 (permalink) | |
|
Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central TX
Age: 49
Posts: 667
|
Quote:
With the amp at volume and making the noise (nothing plugged in), ground pins 2 & 7 of V1, if that quietens the amp, you have issuses with the input jacks or wiring. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#217 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: San Francisco
Age: 26
Posts: 828
|
well, i finally got started on my mission kit today. my buddy and i took turns doing the little stuff (he already builds great cabs, and we're doing this kit together to learn... its my amp though), and we're ready to start soldering. Its ridiculously hot, so we're going to hold off till tomorrow for the meat of things. Here are a few pics:
![]() ![]() here you can see we got the switches and such put in: ![]() ![]() we, know we have ot rotate some stuff a little, but it moved along swimmingly. Can't wait to get into the meat of things tomorrow. |
|
|
|
|
|
#218 (permalink) |
|
Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
|
Very cool.
Perhaps we should start new threads? Since the original poster, two new builders are making this one hard to follow... Besides, having multiple threads with more amp photos is fun :) I can't wait to see how your first build goes! |
|
|
|
|
|
#221 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: San Francisco
Age: 26
Posts: 828
|
Haha, my current pad has no garage (ahh the joys of renting) so the kitchen table is my build area. And yeah, we know they're backwards, thays why i said we had to rotate some stuff. I'll be posting the rest of this build at this thread:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/amp-centr...-2x12-cab.html |
|
|
|
|
|
#222 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
|
*bump*
As reported earlier, there was -imho- quite some hiss in my 5E3 build. So today, I took it to a local repair shop. The guy turned it on, and said, "Oh, that's normal". He also complimented me on a nice job I did soldering it. He only found one place that may need a resolder. So, I'm done! Thanks everyone on this forum for their help, tips, suggestions, etc!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
#223 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 378
|
Just read this whole thread and it has been fantastic. There's some real knowledgeable guys on here (already knew that) who have put a lot of time and effort into providing invaluable information on the build process.
Its really going too help with my first build that Im about to embark on. Cat
__________________
No Telecasters = No Led Zeppelin, No Springsteen, No Jeff Buckley, No Eric Clapton, No Nothing. Long live the TELECASTER |
|
|
|