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| Amp Central Station Amps, tubes, speakers & everything AMP related. |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Montreal Quebec Canada
Posts: 1,946
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Thanks BBB, I'm watching this thread very carefully. I'm curious about everyone's infatuation with 5E3s and I'd like to try building a kit myself.
Keep posting those great photos and give us tips along the way, I'm taking notes! |
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#42 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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OK, so I just made a stupid mistake. While connecting the neutral wires from the power supply I managed to break off one of the tabs on the 5Y3GT Power Tube socket. It's one that's unused (# 3) except for a connection for the neutral from the power cord and the Power Transformer. Does anyone know if I can use a different unused lug on the 5Y3GT or do I need to order a new socket...?? (What an idiot I am!!)
Thanks so much for your help guys...
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BBB. |
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#43 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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I got your PM about this and replied... check your messages :) |
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#44 (permalink) | ||
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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Quote:
This is a great idea! Quote:
I strip a little extra, tin the ends, then once cooled I make a little hook with the tinned ends. I then hook the underboard wire in the eyelets and solder. I think I got that tip from Gomez Amp's CancerLeoCam, but I don't remember. |
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#45 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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Quote:
You should build one! The 5E3 is so primitive and basic it is a great first build. It sounds awesome too! After you get that under your belt, you can then build more complex circuits. My favorite "Fender" builds I've done are my 5E3 and my 6L6 modded BF Princeton head. The Reverb is unreal and the tone (wet or dry) is ungodly... so I think my 5E3 is a close second place :) Do it... it's fun, cheaper than a real vintage or RI, and sounds insanely good. |
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#47 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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Quote:
Got it, and replied. Sorry if it was way too long... I am starting to get delirious. Must eat breakfast before I die of emaciation :) You soldered that board up quick. 5E3's are small, fast builds... you may be done with this very soon! |
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#48 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
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So I made some good progress today.
I finished the eyesocket board, but without most of the leads, and did the input jacks wiring. I also mounted the tube holders and the two transformers. I do need to find a tool to tighten the bolts for the power transformer, it's kinda tight in there. Next I need to figure out the wire spaghetti for the transformers and tube sockets. Any tips are welcome |
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#49 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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Quote:
Keep all AC wires tightly and neatly twisted, and away from the board. Try to keep them against the chassis and keep em in the corners. Mount the fuse holder, lamp/jewel, and power switch(es). Then wire up the AC cord, fuse, power and rectifier socket. Then wire up the heaters and amp jewel. This is fun... two new builds in one thread! |
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#50 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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I think I'm basically finished (of course I may have some trouble shooting to do though... Fingers crossed and all that!!) except that I'm missing bolts to mount the chassis to my cab. I just went to Home Despot but couldn't really find what I want. I did get some that will work until I find the correct ones though so I'm hopeful I'll attempt to fire this beauty up a little later this evening!!!
Wish me luck you guys! A couple more pics... ![]() ![]() And thanks a million to our own Johnny Crash for helping out with a dumb rookie question earlier today. Het get's a stack of drink tokens for his next NY visit for that!!! Cool.
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BBB. |
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#51 (permalink) | |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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I've been watching this thread since it started... I can't wait... let us all know how it's going... As far as the drinks - hell no... I'll buy YOU drinks :) |
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#52 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maryland
Age: 57
Posts: 969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky D. Soldering the ground wires to the plate: I drilled a small hole in the edge of the plate and made a mechanical connection to the ground wire. Then I only needed two hands. As I recall one ground is on a corner of the plate and one is more towards the center of an edge. If you put those holes right on the edge and right in the corner, you substantially reduce the heat dissipation into the plate, maybe get by with a smaller iron. |
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#53 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maryland
Age: 57
Posts: 969
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#55 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
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#56 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SW CR IA US NA PE
Age: 28
Posts: 1,922
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Quote:
- Scott |
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#57 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maryland
Age: 57
Posts: 969
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Quote:
Double check your wiring, starting with the input jacks. Use your wiring diagram and a highlighter, check each tube socket pin and every eyelet - make sure each one is connected to the correct other nodes. Post the voltages here for each pin of every tube. If you don't have a meter, you can get a cheap one under $10 if you want. Note: This is a one hand in the pocket exercise here. That's real lightning in that power supply. With the amp on and again one hand in the pocket, use a chopstick and tap on every solder joint. Mark off the joint on your layout after you check it. A bad solder joint makes noise. |
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#58 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lost Angeles and Orange County
Posts: 7,128
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CAREFULLY measure the voltages.
Is there any noise at all (hum, buzz, etc)? Did you wire the inputs and the OT correctly? Almost there... you're in the home stretch. |
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#61 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Quote:
There's no sound at all... The tubes are all glowing so I know the power section is working OK... It's something after that. Have just had it all apart again but for the life of me I can't see anything wrong... ![]() Checked the inputs - they look good. At least I think they do (?). Will double check the OT... Here's a thing... Am afraid of shocking myself now that it's been plugged in again today. What's the best way to dissipate any charge that's left in there? (Dumbass Rookie Question # 100000). This stuff ain't easy is it...? Thanks again guys!
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BBB. |
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#62 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
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Don't panic, this is where you learn stuff. Up to now, you were just painting by numbers.
First: if you hook it up right, it will work. If it doesn't work, you didn't hook it up right. Recheck that you wired the sockets correctly. Make a copy of the layout and check off connection by connection, being really sure each time. Second: listen for hiss. Hiss is good. move the volume knobs to see if the hiss changes volume. This is a clue that the problem is in the preamp, not the power amp. You should be hearing a little hum, too. Third: recheck those bloody input jacks. I've been bit more than once because I didn't pay attention and wired the switched jacks backwards, and all my signal went to ground. Fourth: learn to measure voltages. This is your most powerful weapon. If something is wrong, you will likely see it in the tube voltages. Voltages tell you the health of your amp. Measuring voltages is a not-undangerous thing, so be careful. Get some alligator clips that fit on the end of your test leads. The black one is for the more-negative side, usually but not always ground. To measure preamp voltages, clip the black lead to the tube end of the cathode resistor for the first half of the first preamp tube. That is connected to either pin 3 or 8, depending on how you wired the socket up. Clip the red to the tube side of the 100K plate resistor which is connected either to pin 1 or 8. Put your left hand in your pocket. Turn on the power, let it warm up, take it off standby, watch until the voltage settles, then write it down - Plate voltage V1a. I put the amp on standby again before moving the red lead, others leave it live, your choice. Move the red lead to the other side of the cathode resistor. A negative voltage will be shown (because the leads are backwards). Write this down, without the minus sign - cathode voltage v1a. Repeat for the other 3 triode halves; disconnect both leads, move the black, make the two measurements. Three of the triode halves should be kinda close, the forth (the phase inverter) will look a lot different. Do the same for the power tubes. Now the cathode is pin 8, the plate is pin 3, and the screen is pin 4 (preamp tubes don't usually have screens). Write it all down. Way high voltages here! Once you have measured all that post it here. Be careful, you will be working on a live amp and it can do more than just shock the bejeezus out of you. The first few times I did this, I shut the amp completely down before moving the leads, until I was confident enough to proceed. And I still usually put it on standby anyway (I always install bleeders and wire the standby switch so the caps discharge when on standby). steven
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"When you have to kill a man it costs nothing to be polite" - WSC |
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#63 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
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Guys - I REALLY appreciate all your help and encouragement!! Cheers!
__________________
BBB. |
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