5F1- AC Main, fuse, and switch wiring

[TelZilla]

Hey there. Still troubleshooting my current 5F1 build (from my desk at work...)

In comparing the Weber 5F1 Schematic

to the Weber 5F1 layout
,
I have some questions about the "order" of the wiring for the fuse and the switch.

• The scemo shows the brown AC Mains wire going to the 2A fuse, then to the switch. The layout shows the brown AC mains wire going to the switch, then on to the fuse. Does it matter where in this order the fuse is?
  
• On the Schemo, shouldn't the wire labeled black which runs from the PT (T1) to the switch (S1) be either blue for 125V or Brown for 120V?

One other thing- is the color coding of a three pronged plug standard? I'm reusing a cord from an old PC. I know the green wire is the round plug (the ground), but I'm not sure which of the two "blade" plugs the Blue and Brown wires connect to. I followed the color convention on the layout, and soldered the brown mains wire to the switch and connected the blue one to the black PT wire with a wire nut. Is it possible that the orientation of my power cord is reversed from the stock Weber one? Would it matter if it was?


Thanks.

[z8894]

"The scemo shows the brown AC Mains wire going to the 2A fuse, then to the switch. The layout shows the brown AC mains wire going to the switch, then on to the fuse. Does it matter where in this order the fuse is? "

No

"On the Schemo, shouldn't the wire labeled black which runs from the PT (T1) to the switch (S1) be either blue for 125V or Brown for 120V?"

Yes, the schematic doesn't show the same transfomer as the layout.

"One other thing- is the color coding of a three pronged plug standard? I'm reusing a cord from an old PC. I know the green wire is the round plug (the ground), but I'm not sure which of the two "blade" plugs the Blue and Brown wires connect to. I followed the color convention on the layout, and soldered the brown mains wire to the switch and connected the blue one to the black PT wire with a wire nut. Is it possible that the orientation of my power cord is reversed from the stock Weber one? Would it matter if it was? "

There is a standard but you've got a DMM, check for yourself. Learn to use the meter, it's very important to be good with it.

[TelZilla]

Originally Posted by z8894

"The scemo shows the brown AC Mains wire going to the 2A fuse, then to the switch. The layout shows the brown AC mains wire going to the switch, then on to the fuse. Does it matter where in this order the fuse is? "

No

"On the Schemo, shouldn't the wire labeled black which runs from the PT (T1) to the switch (S1) be either blue for 125V or Brown for 120V?"

Yes, the schematic doesn't show the same transfomer as the layout.

"One other thing- is the color coding of a three pronged plug standard? I'm reusing a cord from an old PC. I know the green wire is the round plug (the ground), but I'm not sure which of the two "blade" plugs the Blue and Brown wires connect to. I followed the color convention on the layout, and soldered the brown mains wire to the switch and connected the blue one to the black PT wire with a wire nut. Is it possible that the orientation of my power cord is reversed from the stock Weber one? Would it matter if it was? "

There is a standard but you've got a DMM, check for yourself. Learn to use the meter, it's very important to be good with it.

Are you a librarian? Cuz you are awsome at scolding.

[EMan]

I can't remember the blue/brown deal either, but the widest blade is COMMON, and you can use your DMM to trace which color goes to what.

Basically, the route is - COMMON (what would be white normally) to one of the PT primary leads.

The HOT goes to the fuse TIP - Fuse RING goes to power switch - other side of power switch goes to other PT primary lead.

GREEN wire from power cord to chassis. I usually use a PT mounting fastener for that.

[mojo2001]

You should DEFINITELY put the fuse before anything else in the chassis.

What would happen in the unlikely scenario that the switch shorted out to ground somehow and it was placed before the fuse?

Fire and smoke, that's what.

I used to review hi-fi gear. One time I was reviewing a tube amp that cost too much money for the junk that it was. When I flipped the toggle switch, the toggle came unhinged and fell into the switch. Sparks and fire flew. The lights in the room dimmed. Had to yank the power cord. The toggle ended up welded in at a weird angle.

After that incident, I would not trust a switch before the fuse, particularly a Chinese-made cheapo switch.

That amp did not get a review. it went back into the box and off to the huckster who made it.

[Scott S]

Note the first item on the "kit info" page: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kitinfo.htm

[TelZilla]

Originally Posted by Scott S

Note the first item on the "kit info" page: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kitinfo.htm

I didn't use a Weber cord, I took one from an old computer. Solved this problem with the help of my DMM.

[z8894]

"Are you a librarian? Cuz you are awsome at scolding."

I wasn't scolding I was hoping to help. Get in the habit of using the DMM to test connections, check wiring, check components, etc.. Seriously, the DMM is your friend. When in doubt, put a meter on it and prove it right or wrong.
The 5f1 is pretty simple, it may not seem that way to you right now but it will one day. It's possible to put one together and have it work without knowing any electronics but it doesn't always go that way. The positive side of the problems you are having right now is, you are going to learn more than if it had worked first time.
Good luck and please keep asking questions. The amp will sound great and if it ever does have a problem, you will know how to troubleshoot it and fix it yourself. What you need to be concerned about is the urge to build another amp as soon as you finish this one.

[Scott S]

Originally Posted by TelZilla

I didn't use a Weber cord, I took one from an old computer. Solved this problem with the help of my DMM.

Yeah, I caught that, but I offered it in case it described the color coding of your PC cable. Glad you got it worked out!

- Scott

[Wally]

Originally Posted by TelZilla

I didn't use a Weber cord, I took one from an old computer. Solved this problem with the help of my DMM.

So, Telzilla, could you share what you found with your computer cord....brown to hot? blue to common?

[TelZilla]

Originally Posted by Wally

So, Telzilla, could you share what you found with your computer cord....brown to hot? blue to common?

Yeah, that was it. But I'd check if you're doing the same thing someday.

I do think the setup of the plug itself is standard (at least in the US)- starting from the ground going clockwise, if the blades and plug are pointing at you, is Ground, Hot, Earth. Of course, that doesn't help if you can't see what color wire connects to what.

[Wally]

I have always used the relationship of colors....blue is closer to white and brown is closer to black....but thanks to Eman I now have a way to make sure....big blade=common. Thanks, guys.

[TelZilla]

Originally Posted by z8894

"Are you a librarian? Cuz you are awsome at scolding."

I wasn't scolding I was hoping to help. Get in the habit of using the DMM to test connections, check wiring, check components, etc.. Seriously, the DMM is your friend. When in doubt, put a meter on it and prove it right or wrong.
The 5f1 is pretty simple, it may not seem that way to you right now but it will one day. It's possible to put one together and have it work without knowing any electronics but it doesn't always go that way. The positive side of the problems you are having right now is, you are going to learn more than if it had worked first time.
Good luck and please keep asking questions. The amp will sound great and if it ever does have a problem, you will know how to troubleshoot it and fix it yourself. What you need to be concerned about is the urge to build another amp as soon as you finish this one.

It was a joke. And I know how to use my DMM. But thanks for the concern.

Maybe it's me, and certainly it's hard to intuit intent from an internet post, but you've posted a couple of replies to my posts that just read a little schoolmarmish/ talking-downish to me.

I know the 5F1 is simple, and I'm not a bit worried about the amp working. It's certainly more simple than the 6G16 I built last fall. The problem is that I am simple too.

[Guitarslinger1]

Originally Posted by Wally

but thanks to Eman I now have a way to make sure....big blade=common. Thanks, guys.

That does sort of cut to the chase doesn't it?

[z8894]

In the first post of yours I read, the amp blew a 2A fuse then you put in a 3A fuse. That's what sent me in the schoolmarmish direction. Glad you got it working. What will you build next?

[TelZilla]

Originally Posted by z8894

In the first post of yours I read, the amp blew a 2A fuse then you put in a 3A fuse. That's what sent me in the schoolmarmish direction. Glad you got it working. What will you build next?

I think I'm going to 5e3ify my brown vibroverb kit and use the vibro and reverb stuff (plus some additional pieces) to build an outboard tube reverb/ harmonic vibrato.

But for now, I still have to tweed out my 5F1 (I used an old harvard reverb- the SS one from the 80's, and I stripped the black tolex).