Attaching Blackface Handle

micpoc · March 24th, 2008, 03:17 PM

I'm restoring an old SF combo; I've just received my replacement handle from Hoffman, but suddenly (and embarrassingly) realized that, after all these years of using them, I have no idea how these things should be attached. There's the strap itself, the two chrome end pieces, 2 T-nuts, and two screws. Anyone willing to help a clueless noob out?

telel6s · March 24th, 2008, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by micpoc

I'm restoring an old SF combo; I've just received my replacement handle from Hoffman, but suddenly (and embarrassingly) realized that, after all these years of using them, I have no idea how these things should be attached. There's the strap itself, the two chrome end pieces, 2 T-nuts, and two screws. Anyone willing to help a clueless noob out?

The T-nuts go inside of the cab on the underside of the top board. I've you are using an old combo cab the originals are probably still in there.

The screws go through the chrome caps, then through the strap slot and then screwed into the t-nut. When you tighten it, the chrome caps will dig into the tolex helping to hold everything in place.

If this is a brand new cab without the holes drilled, first suggestion is to get the correct measurements from an existing amp. Otherwise, you can use a ruler to find the center on the top of the cab and then measure out the distance between the screw holes by laying the strap and caps on the cabinet....the strap should be able to go flat and then have room to pull up with your hand underneath it.

micpoc · March 24th, 2008, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by telel6s

The T-nuts go inside of the cab on the underside of the top board. I've you are using an old combo cab the originals are probably still in there.

The screws go through the chrome caps, then through the strap slot and then screwed into the t-nut. When you tighten it, the chrome caps will dig into the tolex helping to hold everything in place.

Are you saying there should be holes in the metal shielding plate on the underside of the top, inside the cab, that the T-nuts attach to? The Princeton Reverb cab I have has no such holes in the metal plate.

micpoc · March 24th, 2008, 08:30 PM

bump... anyone? Should I remove the shielding plate?

jh45gun · March 24th, 2008, 08:46 PM

If it is a SF it should have had a handle so I would suspect the T nuts are still there. If there is a shielding plate over the wood just put a bolt in and see if it grabs threads. If so put the new handle in. If there is a plate over the holes the T nuts cannot go anywhere. Is the plate factory or did some one add it? If it is origional like I said I would suspect the t nuts should be there yet.

micpoc · March 24th, 2008, 11:25 PM

The shielding plate has a Fender serial number sticker on it, so I assume it's original. I tried just screwing it down, but it looks like the screw is pushing out the shielding plate. Am I going to have to take this plate off?

jh45gun · March 25th, 2008, 01:05 AM

Just take the one of the bolts to the hardware store and match it with a shorter one so it does not push on the plate. Since your handle is a repo handle he may have included longer bolts then necessary. The folks at the hardware store can make sure you have the right thread pitch so I would ask to make sure since this stuff is new to you. You did not say are the T nuts still there?

micpoc · March 25th, 2008, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jh45gun

Just take the one of the bolts to the hardware store and match it with a shorter one so it does not push on the plate. Since your handle is a repo handle he may have included longer bolts then necessary. The folks at the hardware store can make sure you have the right thread pitch so I would ask to make sure since this stuff is new to you. You did not say are the T nuts still there?

Well, it feels like the bolt is screwing into something, so it's likely that it's the T-nuts; due to the plate, though, I can't see for sure. I considered the possibility of a too-long bolt. Problem now, though, is that one of the T-bolts in the amp appears to be stripped, and the screw can't be removed, so I'm going to have to remove the shielding plate by removing 12 heavy duty staples just so I can get at it. My "free cabinet" is turning out to not be so free after all.

jh45gun · March 25th, 2008, 01:34 PM

Well still does not sound like too big of a deal. Take off the plate and put in new T nuts and screw in a bolt to see how much more is sticking out. Then get the right size bolts and put on the handle then replace the plate. You could drill a couple of holes in it and then just screw it to the top board using small screws that would not go through the board. Or reuse the staples.

micpoc · March 25th, 2008, 01:46 PM

That's what I'm going to have to do; while I realize that staple guns are like blowtorches - "every guy should have one" - I don't, so that's another purchase, unless I can pull them easy and hammer them back in.

jh45gun · March 25th, 2008, 01:52 PM

If the staples are stout enough and your gentle with the hammer that could work. Other wise the screws would work maybe short tac like brads like upolstry nails?

micpoc · March 26th, 2008, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jh45gun

If the staples are stout enough and your gentle with the hammer that could work. Other wise the screws would work maybe short tac like brads like upolstry nails?

Maybe; I'll take a trip to the hardware store to see what's available. But the screw is absolutely stuck, no doubt about it.

March 24th, 2008, 03:17 PM	#1 (permalink)
micpoc Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 651	Attaching Blackface Handle I'm restoring an old SF combo; I've just received my replacement handle from Hoffman, but suddenly (and embarrassingly) realized that, after all these years of using them, I have no idea how these things should be attached. There's the strap itself, the two chrome end pieces, 2 T-nuts, and two screws. Anyone willing to help a clueless noob out?

March 24th, 2008, 08:30 PM	#4 (permalink)
micpoc Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 651	bump... anyone? Should I remove the shielding plate?

March 24th, 2008, 08:46 PM	#5 (permalink)
jh45gun Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,021	If it is a SF it should have had a handle so I would suspect the T nuts are still there. If there is a shielding plate over the wood just put a bolt in and see if it grabs threads. If so put the new handle in. If there is a plate over the holes the T nuts cannot go anywhere. Is the plate factory or did some one add it? If it is origional like I said I would suspect the t nuts should be there yet.

March 24th, 2008, 11:25 PM	#6 (permalink)
micpoc Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 651	The shielding plate has a Fender serial number sticker on it, so I assume it's original. I tried just screwing it down, but it looks like the screw is pushing out the shielding plate. Am I going to have to take this plate off?

March 25th, 2008, 01:05 AM	#7 (permalink)
jh45gun Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,021	Just take the one of the bolts to the hardware store and match it with a shorter one so it does not push on the plate. Since your handle is a repo handle he may have included longer bolts then necessary. The folks at the hardware store can make sure you have the right thread pitch so I would ask to make sure since this stuff is new to you. You did not say are the T nuts still there?

March 25th, 2008, 01:34 PM	#9 (permalink)
jh45gun Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,021	Well still does not sound like too big of a deal. Take off the plate and put in new T nuts and screw in a bolt to see how much more is sticking out. Then get the right size bolts and put on the handle then replace the plate. You could drill a couple of holes in it and then just screw it to the top board using small screws that would not go through the board. Or reuse the staples.

March 25th, 2008, 01:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
micpoc Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 651	That's what I'm going to have to do; while I realize that staple guns are like blowtorches - "every guy should have one" - I don't, so that's another purchase, unless I can pull them easy and hammer them back in.

March 25th, 2008, 01:52 PM	#11 (permalink)
jh45gun Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,021	If the staples are stout enough and your gentle with the hammer that could work. Other wise the screws would work maybe short tac like brads like upolstry nails?