Getting a JLD and a transducer to co-exist ...

Rob DiStefano · September 27th, 2003, 07:31 PM

I really like the natural acoustic tone of the LR Baggs I-Beam transducer ... I'm also sold on the benefits of the JLD Bridge Doctor (for those who aren't familiar with the JLD, it's a truss rod system for acoustic flat top guitars, both steel and nylon classical - all Breedloves come standard with JLDs).

However, both units want to occupy the same space - directly on the bridge plate and just underneath the area of the saddle.

Finally, I have the answer - set the I-Beam between the string pegs and move the JLD "foot" directly in front of the I-Beam, as this pic shows ...

To do this properly, you need to do a test fit of the I-Beam while the string pegs, and string ball ends, are in their normal position.

Once that location is found, by using the supplied "location" adapter that Baggs provides, you seat the I-Beam using the adhesive strip (as you would normally, only now it's moved back about 1/8", towards the string pegs).

It's important to use the string pegs, and strings, in place while finding the right location for the I-Beam - if you don't, you may get the I-Beam to overlap the string peg holes ... plus, you need to account for a little extra space for the string ball ends.

Now you can drill the hole for the JLD - between and just behind the "D" and "G" strings, in the flat part of the bridge - avoid drilling that 1/4" hole on a sloping part of the bridge!

Test fit the JLD - there are 3 holes for the screw post, and that will vary the gap between the post and foot.

With the screw post screwed into the bridge, you want the foot to fall just in front of the I-Beam. This way, both the I-beam and the JLD "share" the saddle.

My JLD didn't fit well and was off about 1/16", so ...

I drilled a 4th hole for the screw post, between the middle and last screw post holes. Then I sanded about 1/32" off the inside of the JLD foot - I used a bench disc sander but 80-100 grit paper on a stick will work just as well only a bit slower. A quick test it all fit perfectly.

I don't think it was necesary, but I filled in the 3 screw post holes on the JLD with tiny dowels and then coated the whole JLD unit with thin CYA. What the heck, can't hurt anything.

The JLD does the job of both allowing the top to vibrate uniformly and keeps the eventual "bubble behind the bridge" in complete check. Since this guitar is new, it'll be there when I need it! The I-Beam sounds wonderful - a very natural and balanced acoustic tone ... even in this "cheap" Seagull S6+ Folk!

September 27th, 2003, 07:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 62 Posts: 4,670	Getting a JLD and a transducer to co-exist ... I really like the natural acoustic tone of the LR Baggs I-Beam transducer ... I'm also sold on the benefits of the JLD Bridge Doctor (for those who aren't familiar with the JLD, it's a truss rod system for acoustic flat top guitars, both steel and nylon classical - all Breedloves come standard with JLDs). However, both units want to occupy the same space - directly on the bridge plate and just underneath the area of the saddle. Finally, I have the answer - set the I-Beam between the string pegs and move the JLD "foot" directly in front of the I-Beam, as this pic shows ... To do this properly, you need to do a test fit of the I-Beam while the string pegs, and string ball ends, are in their normal position. Once that location is found, by using the supplied "location" adapter that Baggs provides, you seat the I-Beam using the adhesive strip (as you would normally, only now it's moved back about 1/8", towards the string pegs). It's important to use the string pegs, and strings, in place while finding the right location for the I-Beam - if you don't, you may get the I-Beam to overlap the string peg holes ... plus, you need to account for a little extra space for the string ball ends. Now you can drill the hole for the JLD - between and just behind the "D" and "G" strings, in the flat part of the bridge - avoid drilling that 1/4" hole on a sloping part of the bridge! Test fit the JLD - there are 3 holes for the screw post, and that will vary the gap between the post and foot. With the screw post screwed into the bridge, you want the foot to fall just in front of the I-Beam. This way, both the I-beam and the JLD "share" the saddle. My JLD didn't fit well and was off about 1/16", so ... I drilled a 4th hole for the screw post, between the middle and last screw post holes. Then I sanded about 1/32" off the inside of the JLD foot - I used a bench disc sander but 80-100 grit paper on a stick will work just as well only a bit slower. A quick test it all fit perfectly. I don't think it was necesary, but I filled in the 3 screw post holes on the JLD with tiny dowels and then coated the whole JLD unit with thin CYA. What the heck, can't hurt anything. The JLD does the job of both allowing the top to vibrate uniformly and keeps the eventual "bubble behind the bridge" in complete check. Since this guitar is new, it'll be there when I need it! The I-Beam sounds wonderful - a very natural and balanced acoustic tone ... even in this "cheap" Seagull S6+ Folk!