Classical Guitarists/Experts Only

[Anchoret]

Somewhat to my amazement, I have never owned a classical guitar. I was thinking that I should pick one up if for no other reason than to have it for the option of recording nylon-string tracks occasionally.

The one thing I do know about classical guitars is that aside from tuning, there are no non-destructive adjustments possible, so the setup and geometry had better be right...but what is "right"?

This is what I've been told. Classical guitar mavens correct me if it is not accurate:

The fretboard should be straight -- no (or very little) relief, unlike electrics and steel-string acoustics.

The fret plane should be collinear (in a straight line) with the top surface of the bridge. Action is determined by the saddle. Top warpage and neckset problems will show here when measured with a straightedge.

Correct so far or not?

Any other tips will be appreciated.

[sneakyjapan]

I`d love to help but...I`m not an expert.

[Al Watsky]

Fingerboards are planed differently than on SS acoustics, "sometimes".
It depends on the model and scale length and the players needs and style.
Flamenco guitars it may be said, often have less camber than classics. There are many variables. Neck angle and finger board angle (not camber) are also a factor, with (again) certain models. Your information is very incomplete.
You might read a book by Jose Ramirez III , called "Things About the Guitar"
,published by Soneto, SEM0412.
So if your going to buy a real classical guitar. The above mentioned book is a place to start. There are a few OK , starter classic guitars out there.
With an action height of 8/64 on the high E , to 10/64 on the low E and some saddle showing above the bridge ,you are at "standard" classical height. That is the height one would expect as a starting point for playing Classical Studies. Flamenco guitars are 2/64th lower over all. All of the various types of nylon string guitars have numerous varying design differences relating to their geometry which are due to design.
Good Luck.

[Anchoret]

Originally Posted by Al Watsky

With an action height of 8/64 on the high E , to 10/64 on the low E

Measured at what point?

All of the various types of nylon string guitars have numerous varying design differences relating to their geometry which are due to design.
Good Luck.

Another classical player mentioned that he uses different "seasonal" saddles to maintain standard action throughout different climatic conditions.

He also agreed that the fretboard should ideally be flat, not relieved as on steel string acoustics, but one less credible commentator said no. Where are you on that one?

Thanks for your input and I have requested that book from my library system (amazingly, they actually have it!).

[Al Watsky]

From the 12 fret top of fret to bottom of string, not all guitars need seasonal saddles, not all fingerboards are flat, there are many variations. There are few absolutes. This is more complicated that you may guess. The boards are flat in some areas relieved in others , often "compound" relief. Its complex.