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Originally Posted by eryque
400 grit seems awful rough for wetsanding, be sure you don't sand right through it.
Most of the folks on the Reranch board start wetsanding with 800 grit and work up to about 2000. I started with 600 on a couple of spots that had bad orange peeling, but only because I'm really lazy sometimes. I figured, why do in 10 minutes with 800 what I can do in 5 with 600?
But then I sanded through the finish in a few spots and had to work hard to touch it up. Touching up a transparent finish on the back and a sunburst on the front is not easy stuff.
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I'd hate to think of the frustration getting the surface flat (block/color sand) with 600 grit or finer. For the final sanding before buffing 600 is alright, and as fine as necessary.
If you are sanding through, either the surface ain't flat- or there ain't enough paint on it- or your sanding board is too small- or you ain't paying attention.
We don't color sand cars with anything finer than 600 beforer the buffing out the clearcoat. I don't kinow why guitars would be any different.
I actually sand with some "worn" 320 (which is probably about 400), then move to 600 (which when worn may be 800), then a course cutting compound, and a final with a machine glaze. I just don't know how much "shinier" it could be.
kerc- "Cool. So you can throw nitro over acrylic enamel and it doesn't react? Nice to know!"
This is not generally acceptable, and most times will result in a disaster. I don't really know how Buck gets away with it- but more power to him. He's very patient I guess. Because enough time will yield better results. It just isn't something you can do in the same day (or year?)
Hey Buck, I friggin' love the "lavender flame!" Without a doubt, one of the coolest looking guitars I've ever seen. Did you do the paint? Great job!
When you mention 3M tape, you are talking about the fineline stuff, right?