Quote:
Originally Posted by guitar2005
Agreed!
Personally, I'd epoxy that and heat it lightly to ensure that the epoxy goes into the seam well.
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This is precisely what I'm trying this evening. I have a lovely ash blank that has decided to open up at the back end, the gap is around 0.5mm, under 1/32".
I bought some "normal" 1hr epoxy & mixed up about 1.5ml. I then scooped it into a plastic syringe & warmed it gently with a hair dryer (shshhhh, don't tell the missus) until it was about the same consistency as heavy cooking oil.
I stood the body up in the vice ensuring it was upright (you'll see why in a sec).
I didn't have any hypo needles to hand, so I just "injected" straight from the syringe into the gap. Once there was a small bead I began heating it again with the hair dryer & it started to flow out nicely & I also allowed some to flow over the edge, down the front & back faces of the body. At this point you could see it had sunk into the split, that's a good sign.
Using the plastic spreader I kept scooping it back into a bead over the crack & heating again until plenty had seeped into the crack, then add a little more from the syringe. I kept repeating the scraping heating flowing cycle until I had no more left in the syringe.
A few more minutes spent scraping & heating ensured as much as possible had permeated the gap & it was showing signs of beginning to cure.
Total time taken, around 15 minutes including unlocking & locking the workshop.
This also works with the 5 minute epoxies, but the pot life is around 90 seconds, and it tends not to cure properly if you get it too hot. This is fine where you only need it to flow out a little, but where you need capillary action, the longer cure time is a must.
Once it's fully cured overnight, I'll sand back the surfaces & clean it up. It doesn't matter if it's sunk a little more, the grain filler will take care of that & I'm planning to tint the filler anyway before staining the body, plus it will have a black edge in a sort of burst.