Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyCrash
If it's something basic...you might consider soldering resistors/caps directly to the pots, jacks, and switches using heat shrink to cover exposed leads instead of terminal strips.
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I actually use jack lugs and pot lugs all the time for even more complex builds - resistors for "minimum gain" work great straddling two of the lugs on the drive pot. The "minimum resistance" resistor in a passive tone control like in a Rat works perfectly right on the pot, too.
People put the pulldown resistors right on the stomp switch lugs and run them to the jack lug grounds, many times.
There's little need to actually have the resistor for the status LED be mounted in the circuit itself - just heat shrink it in series.
Something as simple as a Fuzz Face or Rangemaster can be done right on the switch and pots, unless you are going to be constantly tweaking it. And if you are using germanium transistors, you can cleverly locate your bias trimmer so that you can use it for the "point to point" construction. You don't even need heatshrink in most instances - you can simply slip some wire insulation over the component leads!
You can oftentimes build a booster right on a pot as well.
The main reason not to build in this fashion is if you want to tweak things a bunch. It also can cause a "massive amount of rebuilding" if you have to replace a pot or two. But that's almost a stupid statement, because the circuits in question are so simple.