Originally Posted by joe desperado
I use 3/4" pine for the whole jig. Works fine. I need to make more pucks. I love the original and it makes my necks very consistance. But now guys are asking for a more V or U shape. So I need to rethink a bit of this. Those asking about the U necks want them a bit thicker. So I assume I need to make the small puck a bit taller. (yes?)
Thanks again for a great jig.
BTW: The bowl or plate bit works excellent for this jig. It has rounded corners so you don't get the grooved lines like in the pics above.
Ya - I was going to try a bowl, thanks for the confirmation on that. The grooves are not a big deal at all, but it would be awesome if there was not a 90 degree transition to have to start with when finishing up the shaping. Another plus for the bowl! I try it on the next one.
I just finished up the transitions on my first few Maple necks and I never really had to focus on sanding out the grooves - they just came out when I gave the whole back of the neck a good once-over with 80gt on a sanding block. I left myself an extra .01" on the thickness and only used a fraction of that with sanding.
When I started making pucks I found out that you can make a pretty good U just by using the original pucks and not raising the router bit the last .08-.1".
I posted above what I had ended up doing to 'tune' pucks - starting with the Warmoth picks of back contours is very doable. You just have to do the math and size the front/back pucks based on the angle of the heal and nut width as well as the thickness at the 1st/12th frets respectively.