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| 2012 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge 2012 Build Challenge Forum -- check out all the build threads for this year's Challenge. |
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#122 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Age: 36
Posts: 190
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Hmm, very cool idea with the modeling epoxy clay, looking forward to seeing how that turns out. Do you know yet how you are going to finish your pine top? It tends to be a very soft wood, and dents pretty easily. I have a CV BSB tele with pine body, but that has a thick hard coat of poly on it, and it resists dents pretty well (still has a few, but that's part of the life).
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#123 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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Quote:
The finish - not quite sure yet. I've been doing some tests on scrap how to apply epoxy to harden the surface first, but I'm not that sure now. I'm afraid it won't cure hard enough for sanding. More testing needed. A very thin coat of epoxy applied with a credit card might work, but I have to test how it sands down and how the subsequent finishing options will work on top of it. I have no spraying equipment (and no place either), so the finish will be done completely with stuff I can apply manually. I have some brush-on poly lacquer, which looks promising. My testing is still in process. Yes, there will also be some colour, but I won't reveal my plans yet.. |
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#124 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 40
Posts: 3,162
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That's looking really sharp. I missed the clay binding last year, so I'm glad you used it in this thread so I could see it. Seems like a good way to do it actually.
__________________
"The difference is that you're crazy like Nicolai Tesla and I'm more like the guy who sniffs paint and rides his bike down the middle of the road" - Me to Crazydave911 |
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#125 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Kent, OH
Age: 37
Posts: 1,864
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Quote:
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#126 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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Quote:
I ordered mine from a Finnish taxidermy supplies webstore, by the way. Seems to be popular in that field! |
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#127 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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Today I smoothed the neck after the repair.
![]() Sanded most of the oil finish off from the back of the neck. There's some little scars from the surgery: ![]() Mixed some dust and titebond trying to patch them. Put some on the body too, there was a deep spot: ![]() When that was dry, sanded and went on with the Danish oil again. The imperfections will be visible but I don't mind. I'm going to post a pic later when the finish is ready. I want to wait another day before shaping the body binding, just to make sure it is completely cured. More on that tomorrow. In the meantime I started preparing for the next one.. http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...ml#post4049164 |
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#131 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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The binding is not as white as I'd like...
Thanks, not perfect though.. some rough spots to remind me of my mistake.
Hanging after second new oil coat: I went on with the binding stuff. I didn't know how easy this is to shape when cured, so I was very gentle at first. Put my good sharp pattern router bit on the table and starterd taking very easy passes, first just smoothing it out. Soon there was this grated cheese everywhere: I'm concerned about the colour. This is supposed to be white, but looks like cyan or light green??? Especially next to the wood. This is what it looked like after some routing: The bit doesn't cut all the way, because when the bearing warms up it starts to look like this: Almost there: I sanded the upper edge. First by hand, and when I started to believe this stuff sticks to the wood and doesn't break, took the orbital sander with my favourite 120 grit disk. Incredible, I must say: This stuff is amazing, but it has one negative side: the shavings stick everywhere (static charge..) Finished the edges with sandpaper, the tricky spots at the neck pocket corners with files: Cleaned with white spirit, this is the end result. I can't believe this worked... Very happy except for the colour: I must think how to proceed from here. I'd rather have the binding to have a warm hue, not cold. Maybe it can be painted over somehow? I could have mixed some dye into the paste, but now it's too late. Any ideas? |
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#132 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lake Jackson, TX
Posts: 2,124
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Will the binding material still take a stain? What's the plan on the rest of the finish. Maybe you could mask the top & sides and stain the binding with a rag, or spray a tinted sealer on it.
__________________
Telecaster - The AK-47 of the guitar world. Some may think its ugly...but it works! |
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#133 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Long Island NY
Age: 57
Posts: 5,592
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I think it looks great tk , I would leave it as is , but it's your baby , you've got to be happy with it , I hate to even suggest this but you could route it out and mix up a new batch colored to your taste , I would experiment with the color first , mix a small batch and let it dry ?
__________________
Herb I don't always play guitars , but when I do , I prefer tele's , stay twangy my friends |
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#136 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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This option is very much possible too, it would be really easy to route it off with the same bit as I used for the original channel. The final shaping I did today wasn't that hard either.
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#137 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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Ok. I made some tests with Apoxie Sculpt, adding a bit of dye powder to the mix. Doesn't take much! Here are my fresh test snakes:
![]() The background is a white sheet of paper, neutral cloudy day's light from the window, colour balance adjusted... On the left is the original colour, and it is definitely green. The rightmost one is what I started with. Then split it, mixed with undyed stuff, split again etc. I think the one next to the original is close. Maybe mix a little more undyed to that to get a kind of ivory hue. I wait until these are hard and check if the dye causes any trouble on the structure etc. If all goes well, I'm gonna do the binding again. |
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#138 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lake Jackson, TX
Posts: 2,124
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....And that's why your guitar looks so good. You, my friend, are a perfectionist!
One day I will try binding and I think the way you do it with putty is the way to go.
__________________
Telecaster - The AK-47 of the guitar world. Some may think its ugly...but it works! |
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#139 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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Quote:
Yours doesn't look bad either! With my limited experience I highly recommend this putty for binding. It can be had in other colours as well and looks like it takes dye easily. It's much easier to shape than wood or soft plastics, it really gets quite hard and sticks to the wood. And you can make your binding to any size. Grandad's old router bit took just about 1 mm and the standard binding material is thicker. But I like this thin look. |
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#140 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Finland
Age: 37
Posts: 486
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Today I had a quick visit at the workshop. I'm going out on a trip for some days, so I wanted to do this before that:
![]() And I sure did: ![]() It came out very cleanly: ![]() Mixed the new dyed putty and put it in. A hint to everyone trying this: make enough of the dyed stuff before you start. Make much more than you think you need. It's not nice to try to mix more of the same hue. How do I know?? Also, the more you play with it, the dirtier it gets. Wet hands help when shaping. This is what I have now: ![]() Can't work on this until next week, maybe Tuesday. Then we'll see what it's like. |
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