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| 2012 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge 2012 Build Challenge Forum -- check out all the build threads for this year's Challenge. |
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#81 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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The binding arrived from Stewmac. Once again I am stunned that I can receive an order faster from Stewmac in the States than it takes to get stuff from here.
So, having cleaned the excess pore filler off the pickguard I routed it to size. As can be seen in the picture, the reason I have two templates for the pickguard is that it is flexible, so it is sandwiched between the two templates when being cut on the router table. ![]() It, and the head, are now ready for binding. The pickguard seemed easier (the trouble with the head is the curve up to the fingerboard, and the binding isn't terribly fond of being bent in the wide direction). So, a first piece of binding being applied to the pickguard. ![]() I am needing to make some binding goop for what I think will be essential repairs to the head when I get there, but once I have that sussed out it should be all systems go on the neck. |
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#82 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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Taking a break while waiting for gluing to put up a few images.
The head was bound and then I cleaned it it with the dremel and then scraping and sandpaper. ![]() I then was ready to glue on the fretboard. First I drilled a couple of small holes through a fretslot position to act as locator positions when gluing the fretboard to the neck ![]() And then I cut the fretboard itself so it was slightly over width at each side and also slightly overlength. ![]() Pictures of the gluing process up next... |
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#83 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Hudson Beach, Florida
Age: 48
Posts: 1,007
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Very nice work. I like the looks of binding on a headstock. If you heat up that stuff it
bends a lot better, btw.
__________________
Just another squirrel trying to get a nut |
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#84 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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Hi Eric, yeah, clearly it wasn't heated to bend quite well enough. The problem was actually that it protruded above the top of the headstock which made taping it difficult without it trying to tip inwards. It should be fine though - I have some goop which, when it is all cleaned up and applied should fill the gaps and give a consistent thickness of line.
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#85 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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Back to the fretboard.
I put a bit of tape over the trussrod and applied glue with a brush. ![]() Then remebered to remove the tape... ![]() The neck was then placed face down on a inch thick piece of MDF. I had previously drilled a couple of holes in it for the protruding locating pins. ![]() Then the neck had lots of clamps put on it... ![]() ![]() Once the glue had dried hard it was removed and the curve at the end of the fretboard was done, first using the bobbin sander and then the final touch up part with chisels, files and sandpaper. ![]() There is a little gap at the top of the binding which will be filled with goop a little later on. |
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#86 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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next stage on the neck is the dot markers. Naturally I am going to make life difficult for myself and do walnut ones.
First I cut up a spare piece of walnut into sections about a foot long and about 3/16" square. And then I started to plane it into a circular rod. ![]() Then I have to get the square rod into a round hole (of the right diameter as I will have for the finished dots. ![]() I just basically hold it in one hand, start by changing the square shape into an octagon and then plane the facets away. Once I have got it so it is slightly oversize I hammer it through the hole which is (in this case) a piece of maple. ![]() It gets hammered all of the way through - obviously I need to use a piece of rod once it is flush with the front of the maple, and hammer using that until the dowel rod pops through the other side. Hey presto - handmade dowels, all exactly the right size...
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#87 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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I'm diggin' the headstock!
__________________
Practice make permanent!!!!....Perfect practice makes perfect!!! Chris B. www.neonjones.com |
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#88 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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On with putting the fretboard markers in. I guess there is nothing new here, but in the interests of documentation...
First I mark out the positions. ![]() And then the holes are drilled on the drill press. ![]() I am using superglue to glue the dots in with - dab a bit into the hole... ![]() ...and then push in the dowel. ![]() Once the glue has set enough I cut the excess off, leaving a couple off millimetres protruding... ![]() And the fretboard has that part done.
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#90 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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Back to the body...
First a coat of sealer - to protect the top as much as anything else. ![]() And then, it having finally arrived, I could use the dremel to rout the f-hole. ![]() And the control hole was drilled at the same time with a bigger bit. I will use the normal router for that. ![]() The pickup holes were also done at the same time. I wonder if it is just coincidence that the bridge pickup is routed to half the body depth, which made this - and no doubt things like the 1950 pine double esquire really easy... ![]() And then rout for the wires. It sort of looks like a really big woodworm was visiting... ![]() Next will be binding the f-hole, and themn the two parts can be glued together. |
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#91 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 40
Posts: 3,191
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It's really starting to come together. can't wait to see it all buttoned up
__________________
"The difference is that you're crazy like Nicolai Tesla and I'm more like the guy who sniffs paint and rides his bike down the middle of the road" - Me to Crazydave911 |
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#93 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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So I naturally had to check and see that the neck pickup wires comfortably fit through the routed slot. Nice to see it in place
![]() Then on to the f-hole binding. I am using thin (.5mm) stuff which doesn't need to be pre-bent at all. I start with the part around the "eyes" of the hole. ![]() I glue that section in two parts which allows me to trim the end in exactly the correct position in the notch. Once that has dried I glue on the other (short) pieces.
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#94 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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Back to the neck.
First I sanded the fretboard flat. ![]() Then I set guide curves. For this I used a half-inch wide electric file - which is basically a very narrow belt sander. ![]() Then I got the shape for the main part of the neck. I used a spokeshave for most of it, though other tools (bobbin sander, file, block plane etc.) were used in the later stages. ![]() And the "finished" centre part. ![]() Then worked on the transition at each end, hit it with (lots of) sandpaper, and the rear of the neck is done
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#95 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 40
Posts: 3,191
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Very nice. Looks like you've got a great process together for shaping necks.
__________________
"The difference is that you're crazy like Nicolai Tesla and I'm more like the guy who sniffs paint and rides his bike down the middle of the road" - Me to Crazydave911 |
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#96 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Connecticut
Age: 46
Posts: 840
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That's really looking great! That burl is amazing! I had to do a double take on the pic of you using that bobbin sander, at first i looked like you were taking a electric chain saw to the neck!
__________________
Steve - Connecticut "Give me ambiguity or give me something else". |
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#97 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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And back to the body again. And I finally get it glued together
First though, I had to stick the label in. ![]() To do a bit of explaining... I can't really use my own surname on a guitar because a very-long established American guitar company would send me a cease-and-desist letter. Let's say that giving my daughter the initials C. F. did cross my mind. So, how come Svanen? I grew up in Western Australia whose state symbol is the black swan, so I adopted that. Svanen means "the swan" in Danish, where my wife is from. And no need to guess my daughter's name - the guitar will be hers one of these days. And once it was glued in the two parts could be glued together - splosh on the glue... ![]() ...but not before remembering to seal the inside with tape for protection for the finishing process... ![]() Once glue was on it is a race against the clock to stick the clamps on. Her is a picture as they were going on... ![]() ...and when it was done... ![]() Once everything was firm I then went around it with a hot air gun, just to warm the glue again in case it had started to congeal a little quickly. ![]() So, tomorrow should be the day of routing to final shape. From the start I had been wondering whether I should veneer the sides as well. I was uncommitted until Mark's (Guitarnut) all-maple thinline build resurfaced at the Tele Home Depot part - now I think I would forever be kicking myself if I don't also veneer the sides. But sticking veneer on those curved surfaces will be fun... |
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#98 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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This is one of these day where little bits and pieces happen - all things that need doing, but you end up feeling you haven't really got very far.
Started with routing the body to finished size. Did it in three passes. First was with a 3/4" template attached to the top. ![]() Then I did a pass without the template (using the body itself as the template), and then flipped the body over to do tyhe last pass from the other side using a bottom-bearing bit rather than the shaft bearing one. It came up okay. ![]() I have decided to definately go with veneer on the sides as well, so the touch-up needs only be minor. Then I went to the neck. I set up a system to put the radius on the fretboard. ![]() And then went to work through the grits. The final result... ![]() The little mark at fret 20 is where a bit of filler spilt onto the fretboard. It is fine after sanding - the mark is all under where the fret itself will be. I recut the fretslots, but forgot to photograph that. Then I made my variation on the "Guitarnut no-cost fretbender" and bent the fretwire. ![]() Worked a treat! The radius is a bit tighter than the 9.5" I am using, but that will be fine |
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#99 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Scotland, UK
Posts: 261
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Glued the veneer on to the side of the body. I have some spare sheets, so I cut a few strips, each a bit narrower than the body width.
I than applied the glue... ![]() ...and started to glue it on. It needs to be firmly pushed down to get the air bubbles out, and then tape applied. ![]() And I mean lots of tape! I found that basically everything needed to be covered, or else it would curl up at the edges, even if there was only a half inch or so.
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#100 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Age: 40
Posts: 3,191
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You look to be doing some very nice work, dazzaman. That's a nice, classy label you have there, too.
__________________
"The difference is that you're crazy like Nicolai Tesla and I'm more like the guy who sniffs paint and rides his bike down the middle of the road" - Me to Crazydave911 |
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