RogerC's 2012 Challenge Build Thread - COMPLETED

[pchilson]

Copper tubing for the pickup wire runs, self shielding. Maybe copper foil forms for the pickup cavities, again self shielding.

Gotta see this one when it comes out of the mold...rock on!

[Muzikp]

Originally Posted by GunsOfBrixton

Roger,

For your strap buttons, you might want to think about using lag bolts instead of screws. Put a washer near the end with a nut on each side. This would help to prevent the bolt / screw from pulling out. I think that may be an issue given the weight of the body and that you are using perlite to lighten the mix. You'd hate to have this one drop on your foot if the strap button gives way!

Looking good so far. Keep the updates coming!

Robert

I would be cool if the strap buttons just had threads sticking out instead of having a head on it. That way you could us two nuts and sorta have a strap lock type thing. I'd hate for this thing to fall on your toes.

[GunsOfBrixton]

Originally Posted by RogerC

Thanks, Robert. Take a look at those pics again-- those ARE lag bolts

OK, some people call those lag bolts and some call them lag screws. :) I should have said, you should really use a "Hex cap bolt" and place a washer on the end with a nut on each side.

But seriously, very cool build.

[spyderxxx]

Roger

When your ready to pour I think you want to enclose your mold in a wooden frame. The weight of the concrete and the force used to work the concrete will bulge the sides out.

[DeepDrummer]

Originally Posted by spyderxxx

Roger

When your ready to pour I think you want to enclose your mold in a wooden frame. The weight of the concrete and the force used to work the concrete will bulge the sides out.

+1
It could expand enough to pop the form apart if not. Good point.

[emoney]

Just thought I'd serve up some motivation as I'm anxious to see this thing;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFyQX...ature=youtu.be

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by axedaddy

If the surface is not smooth enough after the you take it out of the forms, I bet you can finish it like they do marble. Use some water and pumice then burnish it with a scotch brite pad on the end of a drill or buffer. You may even be able to ease the edges the same way. Not that I really know anything about it, just throwing it out there.

Hmmm interesting idea. I may have to do some research...

Originally Posted by GunsOfBrixton

OK, some people call those lag bolts and some call them lag screws. :) I should have said, you should really use a "Hex cap bolt" and place a washer on the end with a nut on each side.

But seriously, very cool build.

Ah, gotcha. It would be extra insurance. I'll have to think about that.

Originally Posted by spyderxxx

Roger

When your ready to pour I think you want to enclose your mold in a wooden frame. The weight of the concrete and the force used to work the concrete will bulge the sides out.

Not likely. This foam is VERY rigid and will be held in place on my masonite base by carpet tape.

Originally Posted by emoney

Just thought I'd serve up some motivation as I'm anxious to see this thing;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFyQX...ature=youtu.be

Yeah, I remember seeing that some time ago. It did kind of inspire me to go this route.

[Guitarnut]

I'm speechless...great work Roger!

[RogerC]

Thank you, Mark. That means quite a bit coming from you.

[RogerC]

Just got some good news. I don't know how many of you ever saw my post last year on screen printing logos, but here's what i was looking at...

I wondered if it was possible to screen print directly on the headstock instead of messing with decals. We have a screenprint shop here at work, so I got my logo sorted out finally and got my screens burned today. I'm pretty excited about it and will do some tests on scrap tonight. I'll post some pics when I get home. Hopefully the cement caster will be the first with my logo

[Guitarnut]

Originally Posted by RogerC

... Hopefully the cement caster will be the first with my logo

Good luck with your logo. I've built over 2 doxen guitars to date and have yet to put a logo on even one. I'm shooting for the first on my Challenge build as well.

[Davecam48]

Geez Roger you're bl**dy mad enough to be an Aussie. Love the concept! Is your mix as light as Hebel Congrete?

For the wiring conduits I'd just use some plastic tubing fitted into the pick-up cavity block etc to wherever it has to go but make it a little oversize in case it compresses with the weight of the 'crete.

If you have one of those "Multi Tools" you could easily make an attachment to bolt onto that but the sander should work.

Keep up the crazy stuff!!

Re the logo why not have an impressed logo on the guitar front? Easy to do just make a thin template and lay it down on the mould face.

[R. Stratenstein]

As for polishing, around here, all the Home Depots have removed tile (if they had it in the first place) from the floor, and have polished the concrete to a nice reflective sheen. No doubt you could go further with the process on your Seementcaster--nobody's gonna slip and fall while walking on it!

[RogerC]

Here's the logo materials...

The screen. You can kind of see my logo there


Lay it on a piece of scrap


Squeegee some paint across


And VOILA!


My technique needs work. I seemed to press harder as I got to the end, so the lines aren't as crisp. I'm also going to try spraying a light coat of lacquer first as well.

I also messed up this screen. I was trying to clean it, but was unsuccessful. I tried mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, and plain water, but it never came clean enough to lay down another print. Luckily they made 2 for me.

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by Davecam48

Geez Roger you're bl**dy mad enough to be an Aussie. Love the concept!

I consider that an honor, Dave

Originally Posted by R. Stratenstein

As for polishing, around here, all the Home Depots have removed tile (if they had it in the first place) from the floor, and have polished the concrete to a nice reflective sheen. No doubt you could go further with the process on your Seementcaster--nobody's gonna slip and fall while walking on it!

I'm not sure I want to do a high-sheen polish. I want the guitar to have an industrial look to it.

[Bowensby23]

i've been wondering about screen printing the headstock myself. I've put my logo on flat wood surfaces before, but the curve in the tele headstock presents problems for getting the screen flat on the face of the headstock. Are you going to be using a different style of headstock, or have you figured a way around this?

btw, i can't wait to see this thing finished!

[RogerC]

Got a little more work done on the guitar as well by making my control cavity form.

This form will consist of a piece to form the lip that the cover will rest on, anchors into which I'll be able to screw the attachment screws, and a piece to form the cavity itself.

Tempered masonite to form the lip


Got it cut to shape and then drill the holes for the anchors


Use a 3/4" poplar dowel for the anchors. First need to measure. Since the body will be 1 1/2" thick, 1" should be fine for the anchors




Next I need to carve some upward-facing barbs so that the anchors will be held tightly in the body. Tool of choice-- the Dremel



Now I need to attach the control cavity. Using a couple of suggestions from earlier, I'll use a piece of my extruded foam. First I need some dimensions


90mm x 50mm seems to work well.

Next, how deep does the cavity need to be?


Cut out a piece of foam


And attach it to the base with double sided tape


I'll attach my input jack form and wire leads to the to the foam later.

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by Bowensby23

i've been wondering about screen printing the headstock myself. I've put my logo on flat wood surfaces before, but the curve in the tele headstock presents problems for getting the screen flat on the face of the headstock. Are you going to be using a different style of headstock, or have you figured a way around this?

btw, i can't wait to see this thing finished!

It's not a problem at all. My screen is small enough to fit between the curve and the end.

[Davecam48]

Hi Roger...........Regarding the logo , why not get a rubber stamp made then it's very simple to apply, lasts for years, easy clean up, and you can easily change the colour any time you want, and you only have the initial expense.

[TelePenguin]

Hey, I may be misunderstanding your idea here but when measuring your depth, shouldn't you be measuring the distance from the bottom of the pot to the threads. Not the other way?