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| 2010 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge The REALLY OFFICIAL TDPRI Build Challenge -- not some lame imposter |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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This is a pretty weird project - I've never seen anything like it (of course, there's a lot I haven't seen). Very cool idea. I'm not yet sure what all it will do - not familiar with a sympathetic neck - but I have some ideas. Looks great so far. Can't wait to see/hear the finished product.
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Every now and then I know it's kind of hard to tell, but I'm still alive and well. |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canuckistan
Age: 52
Posts: 13,725
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Doing some image googling I can across this sitar-caster/tele-sitar:
![]() ... but I think your idea of a neck for the sympathetic strings is cooler!
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“The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.” -- Charles Bukowski |
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#44 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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Quote:
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#46 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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Quote:
Thanks for checking out my build. |
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#47 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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Back to the build. I used up the last of my tube of Duco Cement on the front binding. It just made it around. I squeeze the glue into the groove, then bend and shape the black PVC binding into the groove, and tape it in place. Here's the beginning:
![]() Once I started, I got glue all over my fingers and didn't really want to delay the application, so I continued till I finished, cleaned my hands, and snapped another picture. The top is completely bound. ![]() After that set for a day, I removed the tape: ![]() A bit of cleanup needed, and expected. Next I "rushed a bit" and routed the channel for the binding on the back: ![]() A bit of a waste of time, because I should have sanded the back first. Once it's sanded, it shortens the area for the binding a bit and I had to reroute it once again. Here's the back after sanding it again and leveling the wood filler: ![]() That looks better. Next, since the back is a very soft wood I gave the back a wash coat of amber stain: ![]() Then sealed it with a coat of shellac, which completely soaked into the wood. Once it was dry, I rerouted the edge for the binding. And like the top, there are tight curve areas that still have to be trimmed by hand. ![]() Since I didn't have any more Duco Cement, I started to level the top binding. Here's I'm suing a file to move quickly through it. Then I'll sand it, and probably scrape a smooth edge on it. ![]() The search for Duco Cement, which I thought was a common household glue, took over 3 hours and 7 stores until I found it. NO other glue works as well. But I got it, and I'm ready to continue with gluing the back binding next. |
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#48 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Northamptonshire, UK
Age: 42
Posts: 413
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Universal twang sounds cool. Looking forward to hearing this too.
How thick is the body?
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http://usera.imagecave.com/Simnett/siggif3.gif |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sunny Southwest Germany
Age: 64
Posts: 641
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It's lookin' more beautiful by the minute DrTom! An "A" for workmanship too! You might need to change your name to "AmazingDrTom"!
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______________ In the interest of saving time... Let's just assume I know everything!. |
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#50 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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I had a break, so I continued. I used the new tube of Duco cement and what a difference! Much better than my 10 year old tube. :)
I started the binding on the back channel, and it practically stuck without needing the tape. ![]() I was able to use a single piece of PVC binding all around the back of the body. Here I cut off the excess. ![]() And the back is now bound. And I have glue all over my fingers. ![]() I still have to add binding between the two necks, and the flat section of the heel, but I'll do that when this is dry. |
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#51 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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Quote:
To my friends in Europe, the conversion is like 570 millimeters. Always willing to help. |
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#53 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,895
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Quote:
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Phil I'm full of dust and guitars - Syd Barrett |
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#56 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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I removed the tape from the back binding:
![]() But I was not finished with binding just yet. I added the curve between the two necks: ![]() Trimmed it, and added the two flat ones that go behind each neck: ![]() I trimmed up the curve piece on the front: ![]() Then discovered that the curved piece on the front was a bit troublesome (since I used the old glue on it), so I removed it, cleaned up the channel, and reglued it - this time with a little extra help holding it in place. ![]() All the glue on the top will be sanded off later, so I'm not worrying about the messiness. Once the binding is dry, I can start scraping the edges. Here's a "posed" shot of using the scraper. Typically, I hold it with two hands. ![]() And a close up of an area that has been scraped flush with the side wood (still rough though).
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#57 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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Most of the weekend was spent cutting grass. It's amazing that when I started this project, it was a blizzard. Now, lawn care is cutting (no pun intended) into my time.
So for the few moments I had free, I continued. Testing the tuners on the neck, I found that the holes were too small, so they had to be drilled out larger. ![]() I mounted the tuners, lined them up, marked them, then spun them out of the way to drill the mounting screws on the back of the neck: ![]() Mounting screws installed and tighten up on front. ![]() I used an old neck plate (from Dimarzio!) as a template for hole placement. Marked the holes for drilling in both neck pockets. ![]() I took it to the drill press for drilling. Here's the holes drilled. ![]() Then I clamped the neck to the body and lined it up ![]() And drilled the neck using the drill holes in the body as a guide. Notice a piece of tape on the drill bit as a marker so I don't drill too deep. ![]() And here's the neck attached to the body - the camera angle makes it look really crooked, but it's not.
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#60 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lumberport, WV
Age: 53
Posts: 747
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We've reached that point in the show where it's time for "audience participation"!
I have three possible options for what's next, and thought I'd get input from others. Here they are: OPTION 1: ![]() With OPTION 1, I would use mounting rings for all three pickups. I have to fabricate a mounting ring for the single coil. This looks the least like a Tele, but allows the most of the cedar to show. I will be making a custom bridge and tailpiece for each neck. OPTION 2: ![]() Option 2 is similar to Option 1, but uses the more standard tele bridge/pickup mount. However, I will have to completely rework the saddles on this, and it still requires an additional tailpiece. OPTION 3: ![]() This would look the most like a tele. The pickguard will actually continue over to the single coil pickup on the sympathetic neck, and curve around (much like the Merle Haggard Tuff Dog one). This option covers a lot of the cedar. Like option 2, it requires a reworking of the tele bridge piece as well. Any thoughts? I'll wait for one week and go with the option that has the highest votes. In the meantime, I'll be sanding and finishing the body, and working on bridges. |
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