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It's a shame, but unfortunately many bolt on necks, need shims. This is usually done to raise the saddle height far enough from the bridge plate, to give good down-pressure, or seating of the saddles. This eliminates rattles, and improves stability and sustain. I always try to insure that the intonation bolts become farther away from the bridge plate (higher) on the end where they enter the back of the saddle, than at the end where they anchor into the back of the bridge. In almost all cases the shim needs to go into the back of the neck pocket (closest to the bridge). It is rare that you need to shim the headstock end of the neck pocket. True tapered shims that fit the entire neck pocket are ideal, as they eliminate air pockets at the end of whatever shim is used. But these are hard to make, and tough to purchase. Believe it or not, one of those giant square sided, tortoise shell Fender triangle picks, makes a very serviceable neck shim for the back of the pocket. In most cases the medium thickness works the best. Place it so that the wide edge is as far back in the pocket as it will go, with the point facing the headstock end of the pocket, The neck screw holes will almost always go right around the pick, and when the mounting screws are tightened down firmly (don't give it the gorilla treatment or you'll chip the finish), the pointed end will depress into the wood just a tiny bit, and eliminate some of the air pocket around the shim. I have used them for years and they work very well. The material doesn't compress or compact with age like cardboard etc. I believe that is the only use for those picks. Nobody really plays with them do they?
Gene Warner
repairman
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