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If you lern to play by memorization, eventually you'll learn to hear the changes...especially if you really pay attention to what it sounds like to go, for instance, from the I to the V.
For me, it's a combination of ear, memorization, and even remembering physical patterns.
For instance, I play a lot of Blues, and I do a I,VI, II, V change by using 3 different chord shapes in 2 positions, 2 frets apart.
It seems to be more of a muscle memory thing than anything else, in that case.
I've recently joined a very different kind of band than I'm used to, and the leader is a very sophisticated musician, and a keyboard player (as in, "those dudes play a lot of chords!"). The reason I'm in the band is because he had the idea that he wanted the guitar to be Bluesey, but now I'm a Blues guy playing songs that have 6 chords, 3 sections and lots of FBs (fiddly bits). So, I usually start with memory of chord names and physical positions, and I can play the songs that way, but I never feel like I really own the tune completely until I really hear the changes...then I can comfortably add fills, transitions, different chord shapes, etc.
All I can tell you is, each chord change (or interval) has its own gesture, or personality, and if you listen for it, you'll eventually be able to recognize it.
Try going from C to F a few times, then from A to D and see if you begin to hear not the chords themselves, but the interval between the chords...the way thay interact with each other. Because it's the same interval.
This will really help you to be able to learn songs by ear.
It's pretty seat-of-the-pants for me, but I suppose I could have saved a lot of time and effort if I'd had some actual ear training.
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