[boris bubbanov]

I suggest you shape the korina as you see fit with a 1/4 sheet random orbit sander with dust collector, start at 100, then 150, 220, 320, 400.
Once you have the reshaped areas as you like 'em continue on all the korina you can get to without disturbing the pao ferro with 600, 800. You can run over onto the pau ferro on the optional 1000 and 1200, all dry sand.
Wipe real clean, then use the blue masking tape to tape off the pau ferro. Drill a 5/32nds hole (offline with the truss rod) between the four existing holes, and insert a # 10 deck screw with the point ground down, keeping track of how far you can go safely. Once tight, clamp a big vice grips on that and use that as your handle. Now, misting at first, letting the nitro soak into the korina, apply some Deft clear gloss nitro, $ 4.84 per can at Lowe's. A little more each go round. I do one 'face' at a time and let the nitro level with the benefit of the horizon.
I did eight necks today, 2 strat and six Tele, 3 of which were Squier 51 maples, 1 USACG maple Strat, the rest mixed maple and rosewood from Warmoth. Used 2 cans of Deft, leaving a 1/4 unused at the bottom. I will redo 2 of the eight 'cause I got distracted by the football game, but those are good odds.
Leave it alone overnight. You can install the tuners next day, and the nut if you had not prior to beginning the shaping.

Bubbanov

I redid a Squier, a maple Warmoth and the USACG. Acetone and clean lint free rags, make sure you got an serial number stored so you can ink it on the neck once the acetone does its work. The maple neck webspecial neck has lots of CA glue all around the fretwork, invisible till you try and nitro it, this must all come off, hence the redo.
Mohawk Colonial Maple is too semi-opaque, too pigment rich to make a good neck toner. I've run out of Behlen Maple, help!